Travelista73: February 2013

TROPEA: Living the Good Life in Calabria

February 12, 2013

I love summers in Southern Italy’s Calabria. Nothing feels better than trading in high heels and power suits for bejeweled sandals and straw hats. Here, life is taken at a leisurely pace. It is a time to enjoy long relaxed lunches, evening strolls and a laid-back approach to life that many of us strive to emulate in our daily lives. Italians refer to it as “La Dolce Vita,” the sweet life, and that it is.

While at times sleeping in is just what the doctor ordered, I enjoy waking up early, cappuccino in hand, and setting out along Calabria’s scenic coastline high above the Tyrrhenian Sea to the beautiful seaside town of Tropea. Few places remain relatively untouched by the modern world, and lucky for us, Tropea is one of them.

Unbeknownst to the prying eyes of tourists, Tropea is home to one of Italy’s most spectacular white sand beaches, turquoise-blue water, and a stunning coastline to be rivaled by Italy’s famed Amalfi Coast and Cinque Terre.

Perfectly situated between Gioia Tauro Gulf and Sant’Eufemia Gulf, Tropea is swathed by warm Mediterranean breezes on a 40-kilometer coastline the Ancient Greeks named “Coast of the Gods.” What an incredible experience it is to see the dramatic rocky cliffs rise up against the sunlit sea of blue below, and if you’re fortunate, on a clear day you can see the volcanic Aeolian island of Stromboli.

Tropea is steeped in history and tradition with many ancient churches, palaces and artisanal workshops gracing its narrow streets. The most evocative of these is the famous church of Santa Maria dell’Isola built on a bluff jutting out to a brilliant sea. But don’t let Tropea’s laid back coastal vibe fool you, it is bustling with charming hotels, boutiques, lounges, cafés and restaurants that serve fresh local cuisine — some of the best on the coast.

Like a fine wine, Tropea continues to get better with age and provides the perfect ingredients for an unforgettable Italian vacation at a more affordable cost than other well-known cliffside towns. Is it any wonder I keep coming back? So what are you waiting for? Andiamo a Tropea!

FUN FACTS

• Locals believe Tropea was founded by Hercules who named it Tropeas (Trophy) for the prize he had discovered.

• Tropea is also famous for its “Cipolla Rossa,” a red onion with a mild and sweet flavour and aroma. It is Italy’s most famous onion. Local delicatessens use it to prepare red onion marmalade and local cafes serve up a delicious red onion ice cream. It may sound odd, but it’s a must try when visiting!

SURROUNDINGS

Tropea is located on a gorgeous coastline flanked by lots of beautiful sea towns and beaches like Capo Vaticano, Nicoterra, Pizzo Calabro and Ricadi. I highly recommend a visit to Pizzo Calabro, the birth place of the famous Tartufo ice cream and home to the Chiesetta di Piedigrotta; a seventeenth century church carved in a cave of soft rock facing out to sea that shipwrecked sailors created in gratitude for having been saved from a storm. It is a site you won’t forget.

WHERE TO STAY

If tranquility and romance are at the top of your wish list then look no further than the lovely Villa Paola. This fourteenth century monastery turned boutique hotel offers spectacular views of the Tyrrhenian Sea and with just six rooms and a private pool, Villa Paola feels more like staying at a friend’s luxurious home rather than a hotel. In addition, Villa Paola offers transfers from the airport. www.villapaolatropea.it

For good value and private beachfront access Le Roccette Mare can’t be beat! The property provides all the amenities one would expect from a larger resort: restaurant, snack bar, sun umbrellas, deck-chairs, beds, pedal-boats, canoes, beach volleyball and table tennis. It’s the perfect place for a family getaway. www.roccettemare.it

WHERE TO EAT

The entire region is known for its bounty of quaint local restaurants that serve up fresh local fare, and by fresh I mean the fisherman’s catch of the day. One worth mentioning is El Sol Ristorante E Pizzeria with a large outdoor patio, wood burning oven, open aired kitchen, and partial ocean views. Another I enjoy is Ristorante Tropea Vecchia, which serves up fresh local seafood. The décor is laid back and relaxed and the food is great.

GETTING TO TROPEA

Tropea is easily accessible by plane, train, or automobile. The closest airport is Lamezia Terme with direct flights from Toronto and Montreal during high season and connecting flights through Rome all year long. If instead you opt to drive and enjoy the views, you can make your way towards Tropea on the A3 Salerno-Reggio Calabria highway.

beauty

Cutting-Edge Design & Old-World Charm in Lisbon

February 08, 2013

After spending time in Portugal’s capital – LISBOA - I can only describe it as a provocative mix of cutting-edge design and ancient bairros (neighborhoods). The city’s humble charm is perhaps best found in its fading beauty; a reminder of the devastations of the 1755 Lisbon earthquake and tsunami that laid much of the city to waste.

Underneath its weather beaten exterior, you will discover that Lisbon’s dynamic neighbourhoods have it all! From Baixa to Chiado, Bairro Alto to Alfama, Lisbon is beaming with possibility and as a wave of hot new designers and chefs continue to explode onto the scene, remarkably, Lisbon has managed to retain its old-world appeal.

So on your next visit to Europe, make a stopover to Portugal’s charming capital and take the time to explore Lisbon’s historical beauty while enjoying great sightseeing, food, wine, shopping, bars and nightlife.

WHAT TO SEE OR DO WHEN VISITING LISBON:

Take a ride on the legendary century-old TRAM 28 and bear witness to the city’s oldest and most beautiful sites: São Jorge castle, the famous viewpoint (miradouro) Portas do Sol (Gates to the sun), the legendary flea market ‘Feira da Ladra’, the narrow streets of Alfama, the old Azulejo tiled buildings of Graça, the history of Chiado, and the bohemian haunt of Bairro Alto.

The TOWER OF BELÉM is a lovely tower built to commemorate the great exploits of Vasco da Gama. It is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world.

No visit to Lisbon is complete without trying natas from the 175 year old PASTÉIS DE BELÉM. Only one word describes this experience… DELICIOUS!

High above the clouds, at the top of a hill, in the small city of Sintra resides the stunning PALACE OF PENA! It is one of the most famous castles in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site on account of its 19th century Romantic architecture and landscapes. Pena Palace is a beautiful work of art and worth visiting on your next trip to Lisbon.

When 16th century Portuguese poet Luís de Camões spoke of CABO DA ROCA, he described it as the place "where the land ends and the sea begins." No truer words were ever spoken; the view took my breath away! It was one of those moments that reminded me what a small space we truly occupy in this big, bold, beautiful world of ours. A breathtaking natural wonder that one must experience to truly grasp its infinite beauty!

CASCAIS is a coastal town and cosmopolitan suburb of Lisbon. It is one of the richest municipalities in Portugal and the place where jetsetters and celebrities spend their summers. We enjoyed walking around this pretty coastal town and taking pictures. Afterwards, we had a delicious seafood meal, where a little girl came running up to me to ask me if I was Princess Belle. I have to say, that moment alone made it worth the visit!

On our last night in Lisbon we enjoyed a wonderful evening at the ROOFTOP BAR on the 9^th floor of Hotel Mundial located in the heart of the city. The panoramic views over Lisbon at night are a must see! The city glows from above and the relaxed ambiance, lounge music and great drinks only heightened the experience. The bar also provides guests with big, warm blue blankets. It was the perfect place to sit back and relax on our final evening while taking in the beauty of Lisbon.

Bye Lisbon, thank you for the memories!

Amalfi Coast

Positano Bites Deep

February 02, 2013

Adventure

Yoga on the Italian Island of Ischia

February 01, 2013

The fun began the moment I arrived on the Italian island of Ischia and was greeted by my driver, Giovanni, a charismatic man who sang old Neapolitan love songs with all the passion he could muster while simultaneously maneuvering his way through winding dirt roads, past vibrant bougainvillea, and endless views of the Tyrrhenian Sea. We were knee deep in our impromptu duet when we reached the unassuming gates of Villa Lina, the place I would call home for the next week.

As I entered the gateway I was transported to another time and place. My thoughts filled with childhood memories of my grandmother’s home in southern Italy until the enthusiastic barking of Vito, the property’s friendly mascot, got my attention. What lies beyond the gates of Villa Lina can only be described as a utopia of organic living with its lush vegetation, olive groves and earthen paths lined with rosemary bushes perched above the Mediterranean.

Family owned and operated, the villa is run by Nicola, a kind soul who affectionately cares for the property and his guests with the same love a Shepard cares for his flock. He is committed to sustainable and environmentally-sound practices and picks fresh herbs and vegetables from his garden to prepare the daily meals - some of the best I’ve ever had!

The original rustic style of the villa and the land is honored throughout the property. My room had all the necessary amenities; a bathroom, queen size bed, wooden desk, armoire and a terrace with beautiful vistas. The one thing it did not have is a TV, phone or any of the other technological wonders we are accustomed to. I questioned how I would ever survive an entire week without them, but what I later discovered was that letting go of all distractions gifted me with heightened self-awareness and a sense of serenity.

The main house is made up of a kitchen, where we often found Nicola and Magdalena preparing our daily meals, and a great room lined with family photographs, old books, magazines and the only TV on the property. Adjacent to this is a large dining room with wall to wall glass panels to not obstruct the panoramic views that lead onto the deck where we would relax, read, meditate and enjoy gorgeous sunsets. There are two yoga areas; one a room with sliding glass doors and views of the sea where we would practise our morning yoga, and the other an open pavilion where we enjoyed evening restorative yoga while looking out onto the endless horizon. The property also boasts two pools, an outdoor one filled with the island’s famous healing thermal waters, and an indoor pool in a cave of pumice filled with warm sea water. This was the location of our late night gatherings to relax and discuss the trials and tribulations of life. There is great solace in discovering how different yet similar our lives are; each of us bearing our sadness and joys with a smile and positive outlook on the future.

Our host and Yoga instructor, Erin, is a beautiful woman with delicate bone structure and a subtle elegance that reminded me of a modern day Audrey Hepburn, and from that day forward I would refer to her as just that. Her love and passion for yoga is evident in the caring way in which she guides each guest, beginner or intermediate, into the day’s poses and practise. She made each experience a pure delight.

The retreat is open to both men and women, though we had a group of 9 extraordinary women. Each unique in their own way with complex lives and experiences, qualities that would make for a fine wine to be savored slowly to capture the rich complexities, beauty and flavors. Our group varied in ages from 24 to 69, all from different cultures, professional backgrounds and walks of life. It was an eclectic array of women that lit up every room with their laughter and joy. And together, every day was a new lesson in discovery of ourselves and each other, as we challenged one another to new heights, to embrace change, and to appreciate life in all its glorious hues.

Each day began with morning yoga and a delicious breakfast before embarking on a new and exciting adventure. We hiked to the top of Monte Epomeo (789 metres high) to enjoy breathtaking views of the island and ocean beyond. We spent a day at the Thermal Spa Negombo where we sunbathed and swam, had spa treatments and enjoyed the many thermal pools. We explored Castello Aragonese, a medieval castle built on a rock near the island in 474 BC. We enjoyed wine tasting at Casa D’Ambra, the island’s oldest vineyard, as well as shopping, delicious meals, and everyone’s favorite excursion – boating around the island, diving into the Mediterranean, and swimming into a grotto.

What I discovered during my week long Yoga Retreat is that no matter how successful, beautiful, smart, funny, young or old, we are all sisters in our quest for a happier life, and if we are open to the possibilities of change, we will continue to evolve. I have learned that we are only limited by the limits we set upon ourselves and hence been given renewed hope that the best truly is yet to come!

As one guest stated, “Something changed in all of us that week. I don't think I'll be able to find the words to describe it. It was so subtle, yet so strong. Like Woodstock, it was an event that cannot be replicated. But there can be many more happy times, each wonderful in their own uniqueness.” And it is with this thought in mind that I look forward to the next retreat.

For information on attending a Yoga Retreat in Ischia, Tuscany, Marrakech or Provence, please visit www.eatpraymove.com and mention Travelista73 or email me at travelista73@hotmail.com.