On a balmy summer night, the scent of orange blossom thick
in the air, I listened to the passionate lilt of flamenco guitar accompanied by
a seductive voice that permeated my soul. A mysterious gypsy dressed in a
colourful, long ruffled skirt began snapping her fingers and stomping her feet
in swift rhythmic movements. So profound was this experience that to my
surprise tears began cascading down my face. It was my first experience of
Seville and as I later made my way back to my hotel through medieval lanes, I
knew I had fallen in love.
Lying
on the banks of the Guadalquivir is the capital of southern Spain’s AndalucÃa
region – SEVILLE - a city whose romantic past is beaming with exotic
influences, religious festivities, passionate Flamenco, bull fighting and world
renowned tapas. It is the city of Carmen, Don Juan and Figaro and has a reputation
for flair and theatricality that is befitting.
There
is so much to be discovered in this fascinating city whose Arab legacy and
Catholic heritage is proudly displayed in the city’s colorful art, architecture
and impressive collection of historical sights: the Catedral de Sevilla, the
Giralda Tower, Alcázar, Plaza de España, the Jewish quarter of Barrio Santa
Cruz, and the Triana.
The Church
of Santa Maria de la Sede, known as the Cathedral of Seville, is set like a
crown jewel in the center of the old city and houses the tomb of Christopher
Columbus. It is the largest Gothic building in Europe and the third largest cathedral
in the world, after Saint Peter’s in Rome and Saint Paul’s in London. Beside
the church is the minaret of La Giralda, this bell tower that is the symbol of
Seville. Here you will find beautifully horse drawn carriages ready to take you
on a romantic tour of this lovely city that I highly recommend.
Next
to the Cathedral you will find the Alcázar. This royal palace is the legacy
left by Arab kings who occupied Seville for over 500 years. It is regarded as
one of the finest surviving examples of Moorish architecture, and was named a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Inside you will find striking ceilings and
wonderful plaster-and tile-work. Outside (my favourite part) there are small linked
gardens, flowers, fruit trees, pools and fountains. It is the kind of garden
that draws you into a world of serenity and peace.
Another
must see is the Plaza de España, Seville’s most impressive building after the
Cathedral. This semi-circular brick square with four bridges and a canal that
runs around the perimeter is known as the “Venice of Seville.” You can rent a
row boat to relax and take in its grandeur. The inner part of the square showcases
a series of glazed-tile depictions of historical scenes from every province in
Spain. It is magnificent.
At
night, the cobbled streets of Seville come to life with crowds of fun loving
people who gather in the many tapas bars, restaurants and old-world streets to
enjoy life. I’ve eaten some of my best meals in Seville. One of my favorite
barrios (neighborhoods) is the former Jewish quarter - Barrio Santa Cruz - with
its narrow, medieval winding streets and white washed houses. Another
neighborhood with authentic charm is the Triana, famous for its azulejos
(ceramic tiles). Once home to the city’s sailors, bullfighters and flamenco
artists, it has a buzzing nightlife and great restaurant scene. Other barrios
worth noting are La Macarena and San Bartolomé.
You
cannot visit Seville without enjoying a stroll along the riverside promenade
before heading to the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, the oldest bull ring in
Spain, to see young matadors gracefully move around the arena as they unfurl their
scarlet caps and captivate their audience. Though I personally found
bullfighting to be a somewhat gruesome act, the ritual is a key part of the
history and culture of the Spaniards of Seville. On one particular evening, I
had the honor of meeting one of Spain’s legendary matadors who invited me to join
him for tapas and drinks. All night people surrounded him in utter admiration,
snapping pictures and asking for autographs. I felt privileged to be in the
company of such a cherished matador and will always remember that evening with
fondness.
After
a day of sightseeing or an evening of dancing, I highly recommend a visit to
the Aire de Sevilla for an authentic Hamman experience in an ancient roman
bath. The ambiance alone is worth a visit. I’ve gone there with each visit and
always look forward to returning again one day.
Seville
is filled with wonderful historical sites, beautiful boutiques and great tapas
bars and restaurants. How lucky for us there exists a place so beautifully
immersed in old world traditions and romance it takes your breath away…
When to
Visit Seville
Seville
is a great place to visit all year long, but keep in mind that summer
temperatures can reach well into the 40’s. A good time to visit and witness the
extraordinary flair of the Sevillians is during the annual FerÃa de Abril, a
week-long celebration where you’ll see men parading on fine horses and women
dancing in brilliantly colored gypsy dresses. There’s also the Holy Week,
Semana Santa, where hooded penitents march in long procession followed by large
baroque floats with 17th century images of the Virgin and Christ. This may be a
religious festivity but that does not stop Sevillians from filling up the local
bars and having fun until the early morning hours.
Day Trips
I
highly recommend visiting the Alhambra Palace in neighboring Granada. Alhambra
(al-qalca al-hamra) meaning the red castle for its beautiful crimson hue, was
home to the Nasrid Sultans that ruled the region. It remains one of my favorite palaces of all
time with its lovely courtyards, ancient fountains, flower gardens and tree
lined walkways.
If
time permits, it is also worth visiting the cities of Cadiz, Córdoba and
Gibraltar.
When
possible, I like to end my holidays with a few days relaxing seaside and when
in Andalucia that would be the seaside town of Marbella, the Costa del Sole’s
most stylish beach resort. This lovely old town is sheltered by the hills of the
Sierra Blanca and is home to many lovely boutiques, restaurants, bars and cafés
where you can sit back and look beyond to the mountains of Ronda. About 6 km further along the coastline, you
will find the marina of Puerto Banús where the super-rich vacation in hilltop
villas or laze around on luxurious yachts. You can relax on a beach or go
sightseeing. The choice is yours.
